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The three greatest – and most age-worthy – Italian wines all start with the letter ‘B’: Brunello di Montalcino (from Tuscany), and Barolo and Barbaresco (both from Piemonte). Among these, the wine that is the most obvious choice for long-term aging is Barolo, which comes from the small region that surrounds the town of the same name in the highlands of northwestern Italy. Like Barolo, Barbaresco hails from a small eponymous region in Piemonte and is composed entirely of the Nebbiolo grape. Nebbiolo is a varietal that begs for patience due to its high levels of acidity and tannin. Although some Nebbiolos are made to be drunk young, the more complex and robust varieties like those from Barolo and Barbaresco are built for the long-haul. Drinking one soon after release can sometimes be a disappointing experience – the tannins are obtuse and unforgiving, the acid puckers the mouth, and the fruit flavors are uneven. But the passage of time resolves these conflicts, resulting in deep, rich, structured layers of candied orange, leather, earth, and red fruit. A good, well-aged Piemonte Nebbiolo is a truly unique experience in the wine world, one well worth pursuing.
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